This was my first time visiting Buenos Aires, and I was completely charmed by the city. My friend and I chose Buenos Aires for its perfect mix of architecture, art, history, natural beauty, and incredible food and wine. We love exploring cities on foot, and Buenos Aires certainly did not disappoint. For context, we’re in our early 30s, traveled from the USA, and had a mid-range budget. We speak very basic Spanish—my friend a bit more than I do—which came in handy since most of the locals we interacted with spoke little English. This wasn’t an issue for us, just something to keep in mind if you’re planning a visit.
Accommodations: Staying in San Telmo
We stayed in an Airbnb in San Telmo, a vibrant neighborhood known for its historic charm. Our one-bedroom apartment was on the 4th floor of a 27-story building. While the apartment itself was a bit dated and minimally furnished, we chose it mainly for the building’s amenities. There was 24/7 locked security, a gym, a pool on the top floor with stunning views of the city, and two amazing terraces. We also had access to laundry facilities in the basement, which was super convenient. All these amenities made us feel like locals, and at around $40 USD per night, it was great value for money.
Getting Around: Embracing Uber
Typically, we rely on walking and public transportation when traveling, using subways, trains, or buses to supplement anything too far to walk. Initially, we planned to do the same in Buenos Aires and get the SUBE card for the Subte (subway) and buses. However, after an exhausting overnight flight, we opted for an Uber from the airport to our apartment. We quickly realized how economical and convenient Uber was in Buenos Aires, so we ended up using it throughout our trip, which is outside the norm for us but worked perfectly this time.
Food: Culinary Highlights
Oh, the food! Buenos Aires is a food lover’s paradise. While we missed out on dining at Don Julio (a last-minute trip meant no reservations), we discovered plenty of other culinary gems.
- Café Tortoni: We visited this historic café for merienda (afternoon snack) and enjoyed dulce de leche churros, hot chocolate, and a medialuna. The churros were heavenly, and though the wait was around 20 minutes, it was a pleasant break before our evening tour of Palacio Barolo.
- Negresco Bistro (Recoleta): My absolute favorite meal was a slow-roasted lamb shank at Negresco Bistro in the Palladio Hotel. Everything about this meal was perfection—from the welcome cocktail to the final dessert. We loved it so much that we returned for our final meal of the trip.
- Fervor (Recoleta): Another wonderful dinner spot where we indulged in perfectly cooked steaks.
- Merci (San Telmo): The kouign amann from this bakery in Mercado San Telmo was divine.
- Burger Joint (Palermo): A fun spot with a memorable blue burger that hit the spot after a day of exploring.
- Café Lezama (San Telmo): Great for breakfast, with a caramel cappuccino and fresh-squeezed orange juice that were the perfect start to our mornings.
- El Hipopotamo (San Telmo): I couldn’t get enough of their pisco sour.
Activities: Exploring the City’s Rich Culture
Buenos Aires is packed with cultural treasures, and we made sure to immerse ourselves in as much as possible.
- Palacio Barolo: We did a nighttime wine tour here, which was magical. The only way to truly appreciate this stunning building is through a guided tour.
- Teatro ColĂłn: Another guided tour brought us into the heart of this historic theater. I highly recommend it unless you can catch a live performance.
- Recoleta Cemetery: As a fan of old cemeteries, this one was a highlight. The mausoleums are fascinating, and we spent hours wandering around.
- Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (Recoleta): The diverse and impressive permanent collection here blew us away.
- MALBA (Palermo): This museum is a must-visit for modern art lovers. It’s not too big, making it easy to explore in a couple of hours.
- El Ateneo Grand Splendid: This famous bookstore was beautiful, though not quite as grand as I had expected. Still, it’s worth a visit.
- JardĂn Botánico Carlos Thays: Even in fall/winter, this botanical garden was a peaceful retreat. It was free, quiet, and absolutely lovely.
- Ecological Reserve: A perfect escape from the city’s hustle and bustle, we spent a couple of hours walking through the reserve and enjoying the views.
- Boca: This neighborhood was colorful and lively. While there were plenty of people taking photos for Instagram, we found the locals to be very kind, and we picked up a Messi jersey for our dog from a friendly shopkeeper.
- Puerto Madero: We explored this area at night and had a great meal here on our first evening.
- Mercado San Telmo: A fun place to explore, especially on a weekday when it’s less crowded. We enjoyed delicious empanadas and bought a beautiful scarf.
- Feria San Telmo: This Sunday market was a bit too crowded for us, but we did find some lovely watercolors and handmade magnets for our nephews.
Outside the City: Day Trips to Tigre and Colonia del Sacramento
We ventured outside Buenos Aires for a couple of day trips.
- Tigre: We took the train to Tigre, but it wasn’t our favorite part of the trip. The Puerto de Frutos was crowded and had a bit of a “state fair” vibe. However, the boat ride in the evening was pleasant, and I think we would have enjoyed Tigre more with a local guide.
- Colonia del Sacramento: This day trip to Uruguay was one of the highlights of our entire trip. We took the earliest Buquebus ferry there and the latest return ferry that evening. Colonia is a charming, historic town, and we loved every second of our time there. If you’re visiting Buenos Aires, definitely plan a day trip to Colonia!
I know I’ve forgotten some details, but I wanted to jot this down while it’s still fresh. Buenos Aires is an incredible city with so much to offer, and I hope this summary helps anyone planning their first visit. Enjoy every moment of this vibrant city!